- Jasmine Chandra
When I lived on a coffee and avocado farm on the Big Island of Hawaii, I fell in love with these funny little fellows. Farm life does not suit me, and I dislike the countryside, but this was still island life, after all.
The farm was located well up the gentle slope of Mauna Kea, a massive, extinct volcano. I love the way the volcanoes resemble calmly reclining dragons all over the islands. They are sentinels. At the time, I was thrilled by the high elevation, from which I could see the ocean far away down the mountain. I was moved by the beauty of the crystalline deep sky, and I loved the torch ginger at the end of the drive shooting its stately scented blooms skyward.
Living on a coffee farm in Hawaii is miraculous. The farmers have formed a culture of their own within the larger Polynesian culture. There is an unspoken code of neighbour watching out for neighbour. It made me feel protected, as all the Philipino farmers along my road had shotguns, and no burglars would come up the unpaved roads anyway, because there was a pack of feral dogs that howled at strangers.
In my neighbourhood of Captain Cook, we were a half hour’s drive from the town of Kailua-Kona. I would head straightaway down the Hawaii Belt Road to get to town. The nearer I got, the more spectacular the views of the sea would become. You can be assured, I drove down there as often as I could. I love Kona. It’s a bit more charming than Honolulu, because it is less like a large city. It’s quieter, with cool cafes and art galleries.
Along the highway, there are several surprises that have helped to create the lore and legend of the Island of Hawaii. Going to the Aloha Theatre was something that I absolutely relished. Firstly, the theatre itself is pink! That alone would make me run in bare feet along volcanic rock to get there. I was actually quite good at doing that. You’re not a real Hawaiian unless you can run on ancient lava beaches with no shoes!
The Aloha Theatre is not only a classic movie theatre, but it is a lovely venue for world- class performances. I enjoyed attending concerts of both chamber music, and Japanese taiko drumming. The latter was disappointing because I was forced to leave shortly after the music began. The drums are literally too blasted loud to perform indoors. I love taiko, but the Aloha Theatre is rather small. In addition, the theatre hosts plays, including those by Shakespeare (hurray!), and is famous for screening unique art films from around the world.
Often I would pop into H. Kimura in Kealekekua as I motored along to town. This fabric shop has been owned by a multi- generational Japanese- Hawaiian family since 1926. I simply adore it when established shops thrive on into the current day. This store sold everything that related to sewing: fabric, accessories (notions, fringes, threads of all colours of the HawaiIan rainbow, quilting supplies), and I was always assured of finding precisely what I needed on any day I shopped there.
Kailua- Kona itself was my perfect hang out. I bought my wonderful organic vegetables and fruits from Kona Naturals, and spent time at Barnes & Noble. I met up with friends and we would swim, either at the beach along Ali’i Drive, or we would go to a small, secluded bay to wade amongst the honu ( our Hawaiian sea turtles). I purchased beautiful items for my home at Liberty House. Since the 1940’s, this elegant department store was the place to shop on the islands. I cried when I learnt it had in more recent years been bought by Macy’s. These days I search for vintage Liberty House dresses online, and snatch them up.
Evenings on the farm were peaceful. I would step outside and gaze at stars I had never known existed. With no street lamps on coffee farm roads, one relies on the skies for illumination. The moon at that altitude is the glowing silver disc that one often sees on Japanese scrolls. I did a lot of moon viewing as I sipped my tea.
On the farm, we grew avocados of all sizes. Before I lived there, I had hated avocados. But, when I tasted the slightly sweet, ice- cream creamy pale green of the most enormous avocados I had ever seen, I died. To this day, I argue that Hawaii grows the most delicious avocados in the world. Also, there were heirloom tomatoes, guavas, papayas, small sugar pineapples, mangoes, cherimoyas, and culinary herbs of all sorts. It was a vegan’s dream.
Nighttime was when my little friends would appear. I heard then during the day, every now and again. They lived in my house, as they live in nearly every Hawaiian house. They hide, mostly, but at times I heard their cute chirping call,”Geck-o, geck-o,” from above my head in the ceiling beams. At other times, I‘d find their poop on my stereo. It’s easy to clean, and very tiny.
Sitting at my dining table, I would watch them as they skittered about on my huge picture windows. Geckos are able to run on sheer glass surfaces… straight up or down. They were very amusing as they dodged one another and happily devoured mosquitoes. My glorious big cat, Blackie ( he had been named by someone else. I would not have chosen such an innanely obvious name for a black cat) would watch their darting movements. Fortunately, neither of the cats sought to catch them.
I often felt a prick at the back of my neck. I would glance round to spot a gecko clinging to my wall and staring at me with big, black eyes. I think they are adorable. One evening I was hosting my visiting parents to dinner. As I picked up a large mango wood bowl that held my bananas (MY bananas, mind you. They had grown on trees on the farm ), a startled gecko zoomed away across the kitchen counter. I thought my mother would have to be picked up from under the dining table.
I, being the Hawaii and animal lover that I am, giggled whenever I turned my bed quilt down to find a teeny- tiny baby gecko beneath the pillow. I also found a clutch of eggs by the ladder that led to the loft. I placed then in the garden, and watched them hatch a week later!
Some geckos are green and some are brown. I think they look as if they are smiling. Why not? They live in paradise!
Although the low elevation, close proximity to the beach, closer contact with excellent shopping, and walkability to Starbucks makes me far prefer a Honolulu lifestyle these days, I shall always cherish the opportunity I had of dwelling on a coffee farm. Besides that, wherever I am on the islands, I can still see those darling geckos!
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